NydiaMccartney answers:

Use maple for the neck and the use an orange shellac to stain it.You really should look into vintage finishes. Google vintage guitar finish repair and check out some of the techniques. If you master those, you could use any kind of wood for its tone and durability, not its color…best of luck!

NydiaMccartney answers:

Check with all your local music stores for a bulletin board or ask them for referrals.
We had one painted by a local musician that painted and repaired guitars on the side, he only charged us about $50 and did a high qualtiy, professional job. It looks like new.

NydiaMccartney answers:

Yes–the technique is called a “burn in.” Any furniture repair shop can do this. It involves melting a colored resin stick on the end of a heated blade; the resin is dripped into the depression. Then, the tech uses the hot blade to level the resin with the surrounding finish. The resin is then compounded to bring up the shine. Don’t touch it up with a marker, the tech will end up having to work harder to disguise a poor repair attempt. Total cost about $30.

NydiaMccartney answers:

There are a couple of things you can use. I personally like Tru-oil–my dad introduced me to it 40 years ago. The key to a high gloss finish is preparation. The way I learned was to sand smooth, polish with steel wool, lightly water then lightly scrape with a broken piece of glass until the wood was “glassy smooth”. Anyway–I’m going to include a link to a guitar finishing site that has very detailed instructions. I scrolled through them and they look like they’re good. The second link is to another site (also guitar finishing) that I thought might be interesting. Tru-oil isn’t the toughest or the glossiest finish out there, but if you scratch it, it is repaired with relative ease.

NydiaMccartney answers:

Tools
Metal straightedge
Tape measure
Joint knives
Scissors
Sanding sponge
Drywall saw
Dust mask
Utility knife
Screwdriver or drill/driver

Materials

Drywall scraps for patches
Drywall tape
Joint compound
Drywall patching plaster
Piece of wire screen
String
Masking tape
1x2s or 1x4s for backer boards
Drywall screws
Construction adhesive
Dropcloth

Filling Dents

Clean off loose edges. Sand the depression to roughen its surface. Dip a joint knife into the compound sideways and load about half the blade width. Pull the knife across the dented area with a slow smooth stroke. Position the knife at a 90-degree angle and pull across again to remove excess compound. If the patch shrinks as it dries, apply a second coat.

To blend in the repair with its surroundings, sand it very lightly–or smooth it out by wiping with a dampened sponge.

Joint compounds, being relatively porous, must be primed before you paint them. Some paints also serve as primers.

Iron-on Patches for Small Holes

Cut the polymer fabric to size and iron with a household iron set at medium heat.

Apply compound over fabric and sand when the compound has dried.

Always wear a dust mask while sanding joint compound.
Patching Holes 1 to 5 Inches

Clean away loose drywall and cut off any loose paper. Leave the inner part of the gypsum rough. Cut a piece of wire screen 2 inches larger than the hole all around. Tie one end of a 12-inch string to a small stick or pencil; thread the other end through the center of the screen.

Bend the wire screen and insert the stick and screen into the hole. Pull the string until the stick holds the screen flat against the back of the hole. Holding the string taut, fill the hole, working in from the edges. Make sure the compound adheres to the wire screen. Tape the string tightly against the wall with masking tape.

When the compound has dried completely, cut the string flush to the wall. When using joint compound, remember it will shrink; apply another layer to bring the patch even with the wall. A third layer may even be needed. See Finishing After Repairing.

Patching Larger Holes with Backer Boards

Measure the size of the hole you need to repair. Cut out (at a bevel) a rectangular piece of drywall at least an inch larger that the hole you’re patching. Using the patch as a template, place it over the hole and trace. Cut out using the tracing as your guide at the same bevel as the patch.

Insert a backer board with construction adhesive applied to the ends. Hold the backer board firmly in place and screw drywall screws through the drywall into the board, at least 1 inch away from the edge of the hole. Repeat if using two backer boards.

Place the new piece of drywall in the hole and fasten it to the backer board(s) with screws.

Smooth compound around the edges of the patch on the wall. Smooth it out and put drywall tape over all joints with the joint knife. At the end of each joint, press the edge of the knife blade in firmly and use as a straightedge to tear off the tape. Sand when dry. Finish as shown next.
Finishing After Repairing

With both large and small drywall repairs, finishing is the same. Using a wide joint knife, spread a smooth, thin layer of joint compound over the repaired area or over all joints of the new patch. Be sure to extend beyond the damaged part and feather the edges out to the surrounding wall.

Wait at least 24 hours. The compound should be dry before you sand it. Use a fine- grade drywall sandpaper on a sanding block. Wear a dust mask when sanding. You may have to repeat both these steps to achieve the desired results.
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Hped i helped!!!

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~sweetheart kisses~

NydiaMccartney answers:

Woo, not good. I would recommend taking it somewhere to have the finish repair. The nail polish remover also removed the finish on the guitar. The only way to fix it as far as I know is to have it refinished.

NydiaMccartney answers:

Since guitars are finished in laquer you have to be careful. Is the fake blood water or oil base is the first thing you need to find out. A damp qTip will answer that for you. Do it in a spot that won’t show. If it’s water base, then be real careful when sealing it. It will tend to run if not laid flat while it’s being sprayed. It should be sprayed at low air pressure with an air brush rather than a spray gun or canned spray.
The first couple of coats should be very lightly applied so it bonds the fake blood slowly. Sprayed like an atomiser in a fine mist, moving in steady passes over the surface. Tape off any metal parts that don’t have the stage blood on them, and remove the strings and tape off the wood on the neck.

I would use a clear spray laquer myself, or take it to a guitar repair shop and have them do it. If it’s to be a collectors item, then invest in doing it right the first time. It will pay off in the long run.

NydiaMccartney answers:

A dent generally is not something covered by warranty. The warranty would be the only reason to trust your guitar to Guitar Center. Ask your local music shop for recommendations of a good luthier who does finish work. If it’s not a bad dent, you might want to chalk it up as ‘mojo’ and live with it. OTOH, many dents can be repaired to the point of *almost* being invisible.
Http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:xPoyqsAqyAgJ:www.frets.com/FRETSPAGES/Luthier/Technique/Finish/SteamOut/steamout1.html+repair+guitar+dent&cd=4&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

NydiaMccartney answers:

A luthier is someone who builds guitars – I doubt if they would be interested in refinishing yours unless they also do repairs. You need a guitar tech with experience in this area. Rates vary, but you can probably expect to pay three hundred or so for a competent job. It’s a rather involved process – ask around and make sure you get someone good. Most repairpeople do not charge for an estimate.

A professional refin using the original type and thickness of finish should have very little (if any) effect on the tone of a solidbody electric. At least, it would take a much better ear than mine to tell. However, a refinished guitar loses a great deal of its value, compared to one with the original finish in fair shape. It isn’t something you do just for a few dings and scratches, or because you want a different color.